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    Thick, luxurious ivy forms a bed over the space where once an altar stood; a Star of David, formed from twisted red metal, provides a grip for the weeds and creepers which are slowly, year by year, reclaiming the ore, pulling this temple back down into a sea of featureless foliage. For now the stone walls stand tall, an empty shell, but in time these too will succumb. It is a reminder, too, of our own fragility.

    It shows that even our temples, stout buildings of iron and stone, can, in the space of just a few short decades of disuse, soon be dismantled, dismembered, and re-digested by the flora we so readily take for granted. With a population somewhere just under half a million, Chisinau is not a large capital.

    It is a city that, prior to my first visit, I had felt — in all honesty — quite indifferent about meeting. I simply knew nothing about the place… other than the fact that in travelling from Bucharest to Kiev, I was going to need to pass through it. I had already taken the train through Chisinau on two separate occasions peering out the window at rows of drab concrete buildings — what the Germans might call Plattenbauten before I ever stopped to explore the city.

    By the time I finally did though, I would find it a thoroughly rewarding experience.

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    My third visit to Moldova — my first extended stay in the country — came at the end of August. It was a road trip, a small group of friends on our way to see the Independence Day parades in the neighbouring breakaway state of Transnistria. We stopped for the night in the Moldovan capital en route, and this time I was keen to do it justice. The Jews of Bessarabia The city of Chisinau was mentioned in history books as early as the 15th century, and featured a significant Jewish population from the 16th century onwards.

    It was then the capital of Bessarabia — a province of some 45, square kilometres, stretching from the Danube Delta and the Black Sea in the south, as far north as the River Dnieper that flows through Kiev. After its liberation from Ottoman rule, Bessarabia was absorbed by the Russian Empire and would remain under its control for more than a century.

    Abraham Polnovick, a survivor of the pogrom, reported: Dead bodies were everywhere, many of them horribly mutilated, and in most cased with the clothes torn off. There were ears, fingers, noses lying on the pavements. Babies were tossed in the air to be caught on the points of spears and swords. Young girls were horribly mistreated before death came to end their torture.

    I saw these things with my own eyes, no pen or tongue can add anything to the fiendishness of the mobs who swarmed through the streets, crying: Spare not at all! The local Jewish population, meanwhile, was still increasing. The tides of war were turning, though… and when Hitler set his sights on the USSR, Chisinau was soon caught in the crossfire. Thousands were killed in raids by the German Air Force, who used incendiary bombs to set huge swathes of the city alight.

    Many of these Moldavian Jews were killed during the invasion. One survivor, Matatias Carp, later wrote: Other Jews were transported elsewhere to be murdered. Some disappeared into the hands of the Gestapo, while many were taken from their homes in military trucks, to the outskirts of the city — where they were shot in the back before being thrown into hastily dug pits. The ghettoisation of the Chisinau Jews began on 24th July, as an effort to bring some kind of order to this chaos of looting and death.

    Here, amongst the bombed-out ruins left in the wake of German Air Force raids, they were fenced in and the Chisinau Ghetto was born. The ghetto in Chisinau was one of ten such sites established in the wake of the invasion, to accommodate those Jews left behind after the initial slaughter. There are believed to have beenJews interned in these camps, out of which the Chisinau Ghetto housed a population of 11, people.

    While the German Einzatzcommand favoured extermination, the Romanians had considered Bessarabia as their protectorate, and had insisted on dealing with its citizens — Jewish or otherwise — in their own way. These good times would be relatively short-lived, however. By the time the Soviet Red Army returned, taking Chisinau in August and installing a communist government, it is believed the Nazis had committed the systematic murder of as many asJews across the areas of Bucovina, Bessarabia and Transnistria.

    Walking through clean, quiet streets of s Soviet architecture, we found the site of the former ghettos easily enough. A wedding party passed us by, led by a white limousine that cruised down the boulevard with a bride and groom sat up top, singing loudly and waving a bottle of champagne from the open sunroof. Strange to think that seven decades ago, these same streets were a prison.

    But the bold, brutalist architecture of Chisinau, its socialist-realist monuments, look forward towards a utopian future as prophesied by the former Marxist regime. They do not look back. Nevertheless, deep in the backstreets of the former ghetto stood one building that might have remembered the times before. It was a shell of white stone, a bombed-out skeleton stood back from the road across an empty yard of dust. Trees had burst through the foundations, to sprout inside and around the old walls.

    It had been a Jewish synagogue and yeshiva, I would later learn — a casualty of the air raids. The resilience of the human spirit apparently knows no bounds, however; and even here, where twice in a century Jewish communities have been subjected to the very worst kinds of soulless brutality, there is yet fresh growth.

    Turning a corner onto a narrow backstreet as we cut our way through the blocks, heading for the city centre, we stumbled across the heart of the contemporary Jewish community in Chisinau. I almost walked straight past the Chabad Lubavitch Synagogue… a humble, nondescript building that, save for a small plaque written in Hebrew script, did very little to advertise its presence.

    The Old Market area of Chisinau had disguised its past well: At the open gates, an elderly woman tried to sell me flowers. I gave her the money without taking a bouquet. Inside the gates, it was near impossible to gauge the size of the cemetery. It spread out in three directions, paths disappearing between stones and shrines and mausoleums that grew increasingly more green, more dilapidated, as my gaze followed them into the distance. Cemeteries are perfect examples of what Foucault called the heterotopia; places that exist outside of normal social space, where boundaries are ritualistic and time can take on new dimensions.

    There are somewhere in the region of 23, interments at the Chisinau Jewish Cemetery, dating from as early as the 17th century. Here though, near the entrance, the graves were much more recent. Many featured dates in the s and 70s; the freshest I could find read It was written that only 86 Jews remained in Chisinau after the war… but rather than fading out, the graves here told a different story. There were consistent burials throughout the following decades, seemingly growing in number over the years.

    Some of the newer graves had been carved in Latin letters, alongside others marked in Hebrew and Cyrillic script. As I moved deeper into the wooded areas in the furthest corners of the necropolis, pushing branches and creepers aside to pass down long-disused paths, the landscape itself was changing, undulating in great waves of green. It was a surreal feeling — until I was brought sharply back by the sound of a dog growling.

    I saw the first one peering at me from beneath a veil of brambles… and then another behind that, and I think, perhaps, a third. They were probably harmless. Homeless, hungry strays, threatened by the intrusion in this otherwise private place.

    As the pack leader started squaring off against me though, baring its teeth in a deep, throaty growl, I lost my nerve. Logic was telling me to stand firm, stare it out — but instead I found myself running.

    It was too high to climb, so I followed it… keeping close to the barrier as I looked for some way to scramble up and over, out of reach. Instead, I found a building — it seemed to come from nowhere, a large brick structure looming at me suddenly from the undergrowth. For a moment it gave the impression of having floated up out of a sea of vegetation, torrents of greenery clinging to its sides like water streaming down the flanks of some beached leviathan. Around the corner I found a metal door set into a stone frame, partially obscured behind a mound of rubble.

    Leaning against the inside of the door I caught my breath; and as I did so, I looked up to find myself inside the ruins of an abandoned temple. It was built several hundred years after the first graves were dug, opening in the late 19th century. Some sources call it a synagogue; others say it served only for the preparation of bodies for burial. The wrought iron pulpit inside, black metal clinging to the side of a crumbling pillar, seemed to suggest, at least, that the building had once been used for religious services.


    Long after the dogs had stopped barking, for certain; and longer still, as I breathed in the old air, absorbed every detail of the weathered carvings, the rusted stars on the metalwork.

    It is a story of horror, and of resilience. This sacred ruin, this beautiful corpse, stands for more than just a portrait of natural decay. The vast majority of dates, facts and figures in this article come from the following three sources: The Bohemian Blog is bigger than it looks. Check out my page on Patreon to find out more about the perks of getting involved.
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    Questions about your old globe?

    Want to see photos of antique and vintage world globes? Do you collect antique or vintage terrestrial globes? Perhaps you like to see how older world globes show the political boundaries of their times. It is fascinating to see how countries and cities have changed their names over the decades, and the results of wars that have moved boundaries. Some people collect globes because they often show the tracks and routes that explorers took as they learned about our planet.

    Others collect world globes because they are beautiful to look at. Whatever your reasons for collecting older globes, you may wonder "How old is my globe? The following dates will help you "date your globe" and determine how old it might be.

    This is a work in progress, and should not be quoted without verification. Remember, globe manufacturers did not always change the names of countries and boundaries immediately.

    COM -- the best web site on the topic! Share photos of world globes in your collection: Globe Collectors' Blog Please send updates to this list of dates to: Name changed to Iran in o Does your globe have Constantinople or Istanbul?

    This city changed its name to Istanbul in If yes, globe was made after If yes, globe was made o Gold Coast became Ghana in If yes, then globe was made after Southern part of Bechuanaland was called British Bechuanaland, a colony that later became part of the Cape Colony and later S. Egypt becomes British Protectorate. Petersburg, Russia St. Petersburg was renamed Petrogradthereafter Leningrad, until its original name St. Petersburg was restored in Annexed by Soviet Union British East Africa becomes Kenya.

    Palestine becomes British mandate. In it became a republic. Iraq independent from Britian. Ceylon and Burma become independent. Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia independent; Sudan independent.

    Sudan independent of UK. Malay states become independent. Major break-up of colonial Africa: Zaire -- independent in British Somaliland became independent. Also Trinidad and Tobago, and Western Samoa. The whites demanded independence from Southern Rhodesia Rhodesia from Tanganyika and Zanzibar merge to form new country: Tanzania - Southern Rhodesia independent later became Zimbabwe in or Singapore independence - Botswana, Gambia, and Lesotho independent.

    Mauritius and Swaziland from UK gain independence. Fiji and Tongan Independence. Congo changes to Zaire.

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    Bangladesh independence - Ceylon changes to Sri Lanka - Bahamas independence - Guinea-Bissau independence. Papua New Guinea gains independence. Indonesia annexes Portuguese Timor. Vincent and the Grenadines independence.

    It was called Southern Rhodesia. Name changed to Zimbabwe in North and South Yemen merge into one country, Yemen Namibia gains independence - Soviet Union dissolves into 15 new countries: Bosnia-Herzegovina, Croatia, Macedonia, Slovenia, Yugoslavia - Czechoslovakia divides into Czech Republic and Slovakia - Eritrea was part of Ethiopia but seceded and gained independence - Palau was part of the Trust Territory of Pacific Islands administered by the United States and gained independence as a former colony.

    June 3 - Serbia was part of Serbia and Montenegro also known as Yugoslavia became its own entity after Montenegro split. Kosovo may also gain independence from Serbia in the future. Please send corrections, additions, comments or updates to: From the collection of Katie Register, Rice, Virginia.

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