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    The detritus of Britain were discarded on an island 10, miles from home, yet they prospered. The soil proved more important than the seed. Yet there was a cost, an enormous one, and it was paid by indigenous Australians.

    They had occupied the continent for at least 50, to 65, years. Some of the Eora nation, the group that occupied Sydney, were killed in skirmishes with the British troops. Others perished in battles with the freed convicts — people who had been given Aboriginal land and told they were free to farm. More were ravaged by smallpox and other European diseases.

    As the frontier moved slowly outward, the same story was replayed: Aboriginal warriors, part of the Eora nation, had met the British ships when they first arrived, yet the invaders still managed to embrace a legal fiction: That view was maintained, by and large, for the next two centuries. Australia has never enjoyed a treaty of the sort signed between the British and the Maori in neighboring New Zealand. Which brings us back to Australia Day. Do we have to choose Jan. Only the Greens have said it should change.

    And some local councils have declared they will no longer hold citizenship ceremonies on such a divisive day. One indigenous activist, Michael Mansell, put it this way back in Like many other countries its national day marks independence. It builds new monuments as it preserves old ones, writes new books, not burns old ones.

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    Is it possible to turn Australia Day into a day of contemplation on which we mark indigenous survival alongside the successes of the European settlement? However, Malcolm Turnbull has a problem: The current Australia Day is an easygoing summer celebration, more a barbecue in the sun than a somber consideration of history. What if we changed the date? Some opponents of change believe that exactly this will happen. For all of us who live here, indigenous and non-indigenous, Jan.

    In the meantime, an experiment: Can Australians, amid the beer and the fireworks, truly contemplate the history, both bleak and inspiring, parceled up together by Jan.

    If we can do that, we really might have something to celebrate. We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon. Your subscription supports journalism that matters.
    Sorry, that didn't work quite as expected. Follow the author of this article Jan Etherington It's a surreal experience, walking into the warm sea and hearing shouts of "Happy Christmas! But the heat here comes from the sun, and it's prawns, not chestnuts, that are roasted — on an open barbie.

    On Bondi Beach, it looked like any other day in paradise. Then I saw something sparkle in the distance. Feeling like one of the Three Kings, I headed across the sand towards the light, bearing not frankincense but Factor There was no manger, of course; just the Bondi lifeguard station. But they had planted a fake Christmas tree in the sand and decked it with baubles, ribbons and bows. Since my son, Tom, moved to Sydneysix years ago, I'd been back and forth many times.

    First, for his wedding to Fran and then to help with the babies — Ruby, now five, and Ivy, three — but I had never been Down Under for Christmas. That was obvious when I landed in Sydney. The only sign that it was the week before Christmas was my son at Arrivals wearing a Santa's hat. Everywhere banners announced Summer in the City and the Sydney Festival. And the highest temperatures and warmest seas of the year meant that everyone was in a holiday mood.

    In Britain, I'd left town centres weighed down with lights and garlanded trees, but I only saw one giant Christmas tree, and that was in Sydney's CBD central business district.

    For the truth is that in the hot sunshine, glitter and fairy lights look out of place so very few Australians put up Christmas decorations. One exception is Avoca Street, in Bondi, a cul-de-sac of pretty, traditional homes where every house shimmers with Father Christmases, reindeer on the roof and robins in the trees.

    Otherwise, New Year's Eve is as big a celebration as Christmas and, close behind, Australia Day January 26which is a national holiday and a huge family occasion. However, at my son's home, it was Christmas as usual, with a tree, carols and, with my granddaughter Ruby celebrating her birthday on Christmas Eve, a party.

    On Christmas morning, we were woken by the laughter of a kookaburra in the garden and the rustling of present wrappings. There were crackers and hats, gravy and stuffing, all on a tropical veranda. These days I feel Sydney is my second home. Each time I've stayed for a month or more, driving, shopping, dropping the girls at nursery.

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    I know the short cuts, the bus routes and the tide tables. I often start the day like the locals — with a swim, a walk across the cliffs or yoga on the beach. Tom and his family live in Bronte, one of Sydney's eastern seaside suburbs, and like its famous neighbour, Bondi, a big-wave surfing bay. But beside each beach are natural rock swimming pools. The sea washes in small fish, ribbons of seaweed and shells. It's safe swimming — in a giant aquarium. Bronte, one of Sydney's eastern seaside suburbs Sydney is stunning, of course, and it's important to spend time in the city, especially when there is such a vibrant music and arts scene.

    The Opera House tour is a must. But I like sitting at the Opera House bar and gazing at one of the world's great panoramas. Elsewhere — a special treat, open near the start of the year — there's the St George Open Air Cinema, which shows films in the city's Botanic Gardens. Here, you choose from a selection of tasty dishes. Grab a glass of wine, take your seat and watch the cinema screen rise from the harbour.

    I was totally engrossed — until I looked up and realised that the screen was framed by the floodlit Harbour Bridge and the Opera House, all under a full moon. For me, there's too much to see to shop. Once revived, I headed down to The Rocks, for quirkier galleries and fun shops.

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    Sydney's Botanic Gardens Sydney can get steamy, so it's a good idea to zip off to the cooler Blue Mountains for a night or two. Only 90 minutes west of Sydney, the mountains really are blue caused by the light catching the evaporating oil from the gum trees.

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    I was reminded of New England — pretty, arty towns sprinkled among some wonderful scenery — until kangaroos hopped out of a forest clearing to greet us. Katoomba is the region's highlight, the site of the Three Sisters rock formation. You can take a cable car down to the valley floor and enjoy a cool rainforest walk. Planning your evening is crucial see "Essentials"so I spent a day checking out restaurants and prices astronomical.

    Later, we watched London's celebrations on television. Everyone was bundled up in coats and hats. Did we wish we were there? What do you think?

    For the best deals, book as far in advance as possible. Qantas ; qantas. For information on Christmas in Sydney, visit the official website, sydneychristmas.

    But Sydney has a very efficient bus network — just buy a book of prepaid tickets in advance, available from many newsagents and stores many routes are prepay only. The gloriously quirky Sydney Harbour ferries are a holiday outing in themselves and the best way to get to harbourside sights and beaches. Soon after lunch, Circular Quay is locked down and only those with expensive passes and tickets to local bars and restaurants are allowed in book as far in advance as possible; I recommend The East Chinese Restaurant at theeast.

    Otherwise, get there first thing, with rugs and picnic, and bag your spot. Mrs Macquaries Point has a capacity for 20, Bradfield Park has space for 50, Try smaller Kurraba Reserve, or Cremorne Reserve. The early showing allows you to get back to your hotel before the crowds and watch the midnight show on television. The glorious, wraparound veranda gives you sunset views up and down the harbour sebelpierone.

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    Most rooms face the ocean crowneplazacoogee. Try Sydney rock oysters or Yamba prawns. Booking essential Chowder Bay Road; 2 ; ripplescafe.

    Try the steak or chicken specials. Buses and taxis are not allowed within about half a mile of the quay, so be prepared to follow the huge crowds back to the transport hubs.

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    The surfing seas can be dangerous but most beaches have natural, safe rock swimming pools. The best are Wylie's Baths at Coogee and Bronte pool. The highest December temperature ever recorded in Sydney was a scorching F

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