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    The mountain ranges of Alaska give their state a rugged and beautiful terrain across its entire expanse.

    They include the highest peak in North America and are characterized by glaciers, earthquakes, and continuing volcanic activity. Structurally, the ranges are northwestward continuations of the Rocky Mountains and the Pacific mountain system of North America.

    The Alaskan mountain ranges and the Mackenzie and Yukon river basins and their drainage networks. The most northerly of the three major Alaskan mountain groups are the Brooks Range and the Arctic foothills, which extend the Rocky Mountains in an east-west arc from the border with Canada across northern Alaska. Central Alaska is characterized by highlands and basins drained by the great Yukon and Kuskokwim river systems. That area has been likened by some to a moister and colder version of the arid Great Basin region of the western United States.

    The Pacific mountain province is subdivided into several groups. Separated from the Alaska Range by the Talkeetna and Wrangell mountains, the main mountains of the southern coast lie in the Kenai and Chugach mountains.

    Those heavily glaciated ranges border the Gulf of Alaska, the Chugach Mountains adjoining, to the south and east, the St. Elias Mountains at the Canadian border. Elias Mountains, in turn, merge to the southeast into the mountains of the coastal Boundary Rangeswhich, with the mountainous islands of the Alexander Archipelagoconstitute the Alaskan panhandle.

    They rise from some feet metres in the north to 3, feet 1, metres in the south. Except for the east-flowing upper portion of the Colville River, most drainage is northward. The tundra-covered area, called the North Slopeis underlain by permafrost, which is permanently frozen sediment and rock; only a shallow surface zone thaws during the short summer, producing a vast number of small ephemeral lakes and ponds.

    That region is geologically complex, as is the higher Brooks Range to the south, but the layered bedrock is of less-resistant lithologies, some of which are rich in hydrocarbons. The youngest rocks in the Arctic foothills consist of sediments of Paleozoic about to million years old and Cretaceous 66 to million years old age that are folded, faulted, and overthrust toward the north. Sediments of Devonian to million years old to Cretaceous age form the southern section of the foothills.

    Those too are tightly folded and overthrust northward. It includes groups of subranges extending some miles 1, km from the Canadian border westward to the Chukchi Sea. Average elevations range from some 3, to 4, feet to 1, metres in the west to 5, to 6, feet 1, to 1, metres in the east, with a high point of 9, feet 2, metres in Mount Isto. Except for some higher ridges, the entire area has been glaciated and has exceedingly rugged topography. Several small glaciers are still present in the east, fewer in the west.

    Fish and Wildlife Service The Brooks Range forms the drainage divide between waters flowing northward across the North Slope into the Arctic Ocean, those flowing westward into Kotzebue Sound, and those flowing southward into the Yukon River drainage system, which empties into the Bering Sea. Several major rivers have eroded headward into the range to form low passes, the best-known being Anaktuvuk Passat an elevation of 2, feet metres in the central part of the range.

    Atigun Pass, at the head of the Dietrich River, connects the oil-producing areas of the North Slope with interior Alaska and the south. The backbone of the range is composed of sedimentary and metamorphic rocks dating from the early Paleozoic. Younger sedimentary rocks, from the Permian Period about to million years ago and from the Mesozoic Era about to 66 million years agoflank the range.

    The uplifting persisted in periodic increments throughout the Cretaceous and into the Paleogene and Neogene periods about 66 to 2. The orogeny was completed by strong deformation and uplift in the late Neogene. Folding, faulting, and major overthrusting toward the north during those orogenies were accompanied by erosion by rivers and glaciers. Most of the area now is characterized by permafrost.

    Small glaciers are commonplace in the range today.

    Physical features

    Physiography of the central ranges The mountains of central Alaska are lower than the ranges to the north and south. They are drained almost entirely by two river systems, the Yukon and the Kuskokwim. The intricately dissected uplands are divided into three areas: The great sweep of ranges extends south of the Yukon from the Canadian border to the Bering Sea; north of the river the ranges are discontinuous.

    The eastern highlands consist of several separate mountain chains e. Many peaks exceed 6, feet in that sector. No glaciers are present in the region, and permafrost is discontinuous, occurring only at the higher elevations.

    Underlying rocks are highly deformed metamorphic and metasedimentary, with some volcanic material dating from Precambrian time 4. The higher parts are commonly composed of small segments of resistant granite that formed as magma intruded into preexisting rocks.

    The western highlands are subdivided into several smaller groups, notably the Kuskokwim Mountains. Those ranges are somewhat lower and more rolling than the eastern highlands, with ridges trending southwest-northeast.

    Numerous isolated, nearly circular groups of mountains rise above the ridges. The bedrock includes tightly folded Paleozoic and Mesozoic sediments and volcanics and Cenozoic i.

    To the west and north is the upland area of the Seward Peninsulathe western tip of which is some 50 miles 80 km from Russia, across the Bering Strait. Much of the peninsula consists of broad, convex hills and ridges with an average elevation of about 2, feet surmounted by more rugged mountain groups.

    A few peaks rise above 3, feet; the highest, at 4, feet 1, metresis Mount Osborn in the Kigluaik Mountains in the southwestern part of the peninsula.

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    Most of that area is characterized by permafrost. The exposed bedrock is early Paleozoic metamorphics, Cretaceous sediments, and intrusions of Mesozoic igneous rock. Physiography of the southern ranges The Alaska and Aleutian ranges—together with the Talkeetna, Chugach, and Wrangell mountains, the interior part of the St. Elias Mountains, and the Boundary Ranges of southeastern Alaska and flanking interior sectors of northwestern British Columbia Canada —constitute the most massive and spectacular mountain system in North America.

    Much of that system is geologically analogous in some respects to the Sierra Nevada and Cascade Range of the western United States, and, physiographically, it may be considered the northwestern continuation of the more southerly ranges.

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    AlaskaTrekker The Alaska and Aleutian ranges extend in a great belt from the Canadian border, at first northwestward and then south- and westward to the Aleutian Islands. The oceanic Aleutians comprise a chain of mountainous volcanic peaks, the crest of a huge submarine ridge some 1, miles 2, km long and 20 to 60 miles 32 to 96 km wide that rises 11, feet 3, metres above the seafloor.

    Separating the Bering Sea from the Pacific Ocean, the archipelago stretches in an arc 1, miles 1, km long from the Alaska Peninsula to Attu Island at the western end of the chain. With the Aleutian Range on the southeast side of the peninsula, they form a long narrow belt of storm-whipped and often fog-shrouded peaks for 1, miles 2, km from Attu to Mount Spurr just west of the city of Anchorage. More than 80 volcanoes have been mapped in the chain, half of which have been active in the last three to four centuries.

    Marine sedimentary rocks and granitic intrusions from the Mesozoic and Cenozoic eras, as well as Cenozoic volcanic rocks, form that range. There are enormous calderas—collapsed craters marking past volcanic eruptions. In one of the most-spectacular of recent historic eruptions occurred when a volcano in the Aleutian Range erupted and formed the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokesin what is now Katmai National Park and Preserve.

    Mount Spurr erupted in and remains active, as do Mounts Redoubt and Augustine The Alaska Range merges on its western end with the Aleutian Range between Iliamna Lake and Mount Spurr and extends in a great arc some miles 1, km to the Canadian border at the southeastern end. That great mountain wall is about miles km wide near Mount Spurr and about 60 miles wide in the vicinity of Denali Mount McKinleygradually narrowing to about 30 miles 48 km near the Canadian border.

    The range is extremely rugged and glaciated. The crest of most of the range averages between 7, and 9, feet 2, to 2, metres in elevation, with a number of peaks exceeding 10, feet 1, km.

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    Four great individual mountain masses dominate the Alaska group, divided by a number of low passes and river valleys, several of which provide routes of travel across the mountains. Great valley glaciers radiate from those mountain masses, except in the relatively low eastern sectors, where the few glaciers are small. The Alaska Range is the drainage divide for rivers flowing north into the Yukon system and those flowing south into the Gulf of Alaska.

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    The youngest sedimentary sequences are of Cenozoic age, are only moderately deformed, and can contain large deposits of coal. Long valleys and low passes follow the course of geologic faults, some extending almost parallel to the entire length of the range. The faults are thought to have formed near the close of the Mesozoic Era. Between the Alaska Range and the coastal ranges lie the Talkeetna Mountains and, to the east of them, the Wrangell Mountains. The Talkeetnas occupy a rugged oval area about miles km from north to south and 70 miles km from east to west.

    They consist of a compact group of radial ridges averaging from 6, to 8, feet 1, to 2, metres in elevation. There are only a few low passes. The higher ridges are sharp-crested, but on the western flank, as elevation decreases, the ridge tops have been rounded and subdued by overriding glaciers during the Pleistocene Epoch about 2, to 11, years ago. Small glaciers 5 to 15 miles 8 to 24 km long are still present at the heads of many valleys in the Talkeetnas. The bedrock consists of a granite batholith intruded during the Mesozoic.

    Paleozoic and Mesozoic sediments and volcanics are exposed on the flanks of the highlands. Some Cenozoic volcanic flows are present in the southeastern part. The high glaciated massifs rise more than 10, feet 3, metres above the Copper River basin.

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    Extensive local ice caps cover most of the highest mountains and feed large valley glaciers. The oval-shaped range consists of composite volcanic mountains that rest on metamorphosed Paleozoic and Mesozoic sedimentary and igneous rocks. Some granitic masses intrude the Mesozoic rocks. Several peaks are at elevations higher than 12, feet 3, metres ; the highest is Mount Bona, 16, feet 5, metreswhile Mount Wrangell 14, feet [4, metres] is still steaming.

    The Wrangells are some of the most visually striking of the Alaskan mountains because of their rugged topography and perennial snow cover. Mountainous Kodiak Island and the Kenai and Chugach mountains form a rugged barrier along the northeast margin of the Pacific Ocean.

    The mountains of the Kodiak Island group, with average elevations of 2, to 4, feet to 1, metrestrend southwest-northeast. Pleistocene glaciation over most of the island produced a highly irregular coastline. The average elevation of the Kenai Mountains is 3, to 5, feet to 1, metreswhereas the Chugach group to the north and east average 7, to 8, feet 2, to 2, metres.

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    The highest peaks are in the sharp bend of the arc, where Mount Marcus Baker rises to 13, feet 4, metres. The mountains are extremely rugged and heavily glaciated, resulting in the Sargent and Harding ice fields in the Kenai Mountains on the Kenai Peninsula and the Bagley Ice Field in the eastern Chugach Mountains.

    Numerous long and spectacular glaciers descend from the crests of those mountains. Elias Mountains and the Kenai-Chugach mountain system have the most-extensive system of highland and valley glaciers in North America, consisting of the Chugach and St. The Mesozoic lithologies, primarily marine sediments and volcanics, have been intensely metamorphosed, folded, and faulted and have been intruded by small to moderate-size igneous bodies.

    Along the coastal areas on Kodiak Island in the Gulf of Alaska, softer Cenozoic marine sediments are well exposed. Elias Mountains straddle the border between Alaska and Canada.

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